guide to nice vol. 1
where to eat & what to do in Nice "proper"
As we’re entering the summer tourism season, my most asked question is for recommendations in Nice. I usually send a scrappy screenshot of a running list in my notes app but decided to go into a more comprehensive version here. I’ve had to break it into multiple parts for the sake of brevity.
The first chapter is what to do in Nice the city itself, and the next edition will be easily accessible surrounding towns along the Côte d’Azur.
*when in France*
A few words of note. I have been to almost every one of these places, and if I haven’t, then someone I know has. French restaurants are small. I recommend booking in advance if you have your sights set on a specific spot for a dinner or lunch. Often restaurants for dinner only have two seatings. You may still end up sitting on a tiny barstool and not have elbow room but sometimes, c’est la vie.
Noone will bring you the check and rush you to pay when you’re done eating. When you are ready, you ask for l’addition and they will bring it. Une carafe d’eau is the way to ask for a *free* bottle of water for the table.
I prefer supporting places with nice staff, but we are in France and their version of hospitality is much less forthcoming than say, in Texas. You never know what kind of day you’re catching people on and tourist season can string workers a bit dry.
restaurants/wine bars
*denotes reservation highly recommended/necessary
babel babel -seaside view, mediterranean bites, natural wine and fun cocktails
lavomatique* -natural wine and tapas style plates. easiest to eat as a smaller group, definitely reserve ahead of time!
La pêche à la vigne* -one of our favorite nonchalant wine bars with an everchanging menu on a chalkboard
Hely* -wine bar with small plates
Rouge-doesn’t take reservations but worth a little wait for a fun spot to sip wine with yummy small plates. check out their giant mound of butter
La cave du fromager*- exactly what the name says…an actual cave below ground where only good things can be stored in such temps. prepare to be filled with cheese and wine. cash only***
Comptoir du marché* -a favorite of mine to take out of town guests for that classical french bistro vibe. a seasonal menu with friendly staff that never leaves you hungry.
La part des anges -a wine bar with natural wines and small plates
Chez Davia*-another favorite for that traditional “french” feeling with a handwritten rotating menu with niçoise dishes specific to the region
Brasserie le Gambetta-a little off the beaten path, but this is the spot if you want oysters. Feels like you’re in an old French movie too.
Hotel Amour*-mediterranean, garden-y bar atmosphere with a dj later at night sometimes.
Peixes- seafood heavy spot with two locations now. No reservations taken but the wait isn’t usually too long if you arrive when it opens. vino verde and ceviche is *chefs kiss*
La Boulisterie Club-for the pétanque lovers or learners, a bar/restaurant where you can simultaneously play french lawn bowling indoors while dining/drinking.
Robbi sandwicherie- funky sandwich spot in the port. limited seating so if you can’t sit take it to go and sit by the port. recommend the croque monsieur and thé glacé.
Cave Rembrandt-not a bar but our favorite wine store to pick up some wine, with the help of the caviste for dinner or drinks on the beach
more wine bars: Les Oeillets, Mama Shelter rooftop
Some places I want to try but haven’t yet: La Perouse, Bar des Oiseaux, Bar de la Dégustation, Barrique , Bistrot d’Antoine, Olive et Artichaut
Asian
for when you’re tired of French food
Banh mei* -our favorite Vietnamese place in old town, on a slope and perfectly located for gelato après
Sushi Arson*-tiny spot with a very sweet staff of two. menu du jour.
Maido*-Japanese fusion
Sixsa*- Korean/French fusion.
Deli Banh Mi- great lunch spot with Vietnamese bowls or sandwiches
In’s coffee-Korean fried chicken, lunch or coffee spot
Pizza
Nice was still part of Italy until 1860, so the pizza here is top notch Neapolitan style. If you’re tired of eating out while on vacation, grab a bottle of wine and pick up a pizza for the perfect beachside picnic.
coffee/ goûter
gelato
Fenocchio-you’ll know it by the line out front but it’s worth it. hundreds of flavors
coffee/brunch
Marinette -have a cookie minute in my honor (like chili’s but better). yummy food, citronnade framboise and delicious pastries
Alvin’s café-our favorite spot for coffee
Clay -brunch or coffee all day
boulangeries
(french for bakeries)
Pompon -the hipster bakery of riquier with some excellent sourdough bread
Boulangerie Jeannot- my personal favorite spot for a pain au chocolat
to do
markets
Monday antique market (Cours Saleya)
Flower/vegetable market Tuesday-Sunday (visit Mege père et fils for the best flower selection)
museums
beaches
Coco beach-not stroller friendly, lots of stairs but some excellent views and rocks to jump off of. Also pass by le plongeoir for an iconic Nice photo.
Beach clubs: where you can rent chairs for the day and have lunch all in the same place
walks
Sentier du Cap de Nice-a hike from Nice to Villefranche if you follow the marked signs. Pick up a pain bagnat for a picnic lunch along the way, wear your bathing suit to dip into coves, and pack some water because you’ll be climbing some stairs.
Colline du château-walk up this hill from either side for views of the Port on one side, and views down the coast on the other. Lots of stairs involved, but there’s a café at the top and playground/park space.
shopping
Galeries Lafayette-a bit of everything, the quintessential french department store
Monoprix -only the bigger ones have home, clothing, kids and pharmacy sections but I pretty much get all of Charlotte’s clothes here
Mango + Zara -worth a stop if you’re visiting from the US-better prices and more selection
Zara home -all things beautiful homewares, loungewear, and kids clothes
Showroom 54-the basket mecca
Côtes et lin-french linen clothes in the old town
Home: Cabane , Baobab , Les Choses qu’on Aime, Good design store, Cosi
Women’s: Sessun , Longchamp, Soeur, Maje, Sandro
Shoes/Men’s: La Fabric shop, Antic Boutik, Hype
kids
Le petit souk-favorite spot for kid’s dishes and little treasures
Born Koncept- boutique-y but very well curated kids store
Jacadi, Petit Bateau, Bonpoint -for your classic French brands, Bonpoint is definitely pricier
not your typical souvenirs**
Troc Azur -treasure hunting required* a classic dépot-vente, your French thrift store perse, but treasures run galore if you’re willing to dig
Trésors public -a general store where everything sold was made in France
Fragonard-based in Grasse nearby, Fragonard is a staple for the region and always has pretty textiles and smelly bits to take as gifts
Compagnie du Provence-another gift spot if you’re willing to bring home glass bottles of hand soap
what to eat
So you made it here or to any of these numerous places, now what to order? These are a few staples I think are worth enjoying while you’re in France, especially here in the south.
moules frites-the south of france version of steak-frites: a personal bucket of mussels alongside a basket of fries with excellent jus to dip your bread in
speculoos gelato- my personal favorite flavor
tarte au citron
mousse au chocolat
fromage- as we say among our friends, dommage fromage. It’s only your loss if you don’t try the cheese
pain bagnat-like a niçoise salad in sandwich form…perfect beachside food
nutella crêpe-quite possibly the main reason I took french in school for 6 years…
rosé-you’re in the region so even the house wines are great. it’s never too early for a glass of wine or an apérol spritz in france
un verre de vin orange- summery and light, definitely in my orange wine era
pain au chocolat
chouquettes- dare I say french donut holes? small spheres of pastry dough baked and sugared
Feel free to message me with any questions you might have. Otherwise, relax, enjoy your stay and take a dip in the sea if it’s not too cold when you’re visiting! The Mediterranean can solve a lot of problems.
Stay tuned for vol. 2 in the weeks to come…
xx Frances
Love!! Daydreaming of a Nice getaway ⛱️🌊
This is amazing - so helpful! Thank you for sharing 🩵